Conditioning A Rabbit
To be competitive, anything must be in good condition.
1. What is condition in terms of a rabbit?
a. The physical state of a rabbit in reference to health, cleanliness grooming and general condition of it’s fur.
2. Condition in most rabbits are included in TYPE in the standards as: Flesh to be firm and free from over-fatness or a loose flabby condition.
3. Every breeder who wins consistently has his own pet theory that works for him, it may not work for you but here are some tips you might try, I am sure some will work if you work at them.
a. Breeding:
(1) Stay within the bloodline.
(2) Sire and Dam must be in good average condition at the time of mating.
(3) If the Doe is kept in good condition, she will bear a litter a lot easier and do a better job raising them.
(4) Two or three days before kindling, cut her feed down slightly (she may do this herself), so she will not have milk when the young are born and first start nursing. She should have a sugary type liquid the first couple of days.
(5) The Doe may need rest after each litter, some do not this depends many times on how you breed your bloodline.
(6) Things that upset the animal can affect their condition.
(7) Pick young to save that are good eaters.
(8) Pick young that are hard and have medium to short fur, and relatively thick fur, never pick one with long fur.
b. Use a good basic pellet, 15 to 18% protein, and 18 to 20% fiber.
c. Feed 5 to 6 oz daily to single rabbits, after the Doe kindles increase her feed to 10 oz gradually, starting on the third day, if droppings stick to wire,
decrease the feed slightly.
d. If rabbits go off feed give them:
1. Hard stale bread.
2. Hay or straw.
3. Wild grape or strawberry leaves.
4. Small amounts of dandelion greens.
5. Comfrey.
6. Oak leaves, green or dry.
4. Rolled or crimped oats are good for kits, feed separate from pellets.
5. Never rush the kits along, if you do you will throw them into a moult or get them hog fat.
6. Never change brands of pellets during the show season, when a Doe is nursing or during a conditioning period if you can help it. Some feed companies change ingredients in feeds to save cost, stay away from these companies that practice this if possible.
7. Carry your own feed to over night and longer shows, also your own water if possible.
NOTE: Here are the things to remember:
A. You must keep young rabbits eating at this age, if they lose condition, they never regain it.
B. Handle your rabbits often.
C. Shorter fur rabbits condition easier.
D. Keep rabbits that are good eaters.
E. After a period of time, too high of protein can cause rabbits to become flabby in flesh.
F. Proper caging, keep it clean and dry.
G. Ordinarily you feed less in the summer, corn or calf manna is given only to the Does with litters.
H. Heavier rabbits will break in fur more often then leaner ones.
1. What is condition in terms of a rabbit?
a. The physical state of a rabbit in reference to health, cleanliness grooming and general condition of it’s fur.
2. Condition in most rabbits are included in TYPE in the standards as: Flesh to be firm and free from over-fatness or a loose flabby condition.
3. Every breeder who wins consistently has his own pet theory that works for him, it may not work for you but here are some tips you might try, I am sure some will work if you work at them.
a. Breeding:
(1) Stay within the bloodline.
(2) Sire and Dam must be in good average condition at the time of mating.
(3) If the Doe is kept in good condition, she will bear a litter a lot easier and do a better job raising them.
(4) Two or three days before kindling, cut her feed down slightly (she may do this herself), so she will not have milk when the young are born and first start nursing. She should have a sugary type liquid the first couple of days.
(5) The Doe may need rest after each litter, some do not this depends many times on how you breed your bloodline.
(6) Things that upset the animal can affect their condition.
(7) Pick young to save that are good eaters.
(8) Pick young that are hard and have medium to short fur, and relatively thick fur, never pick one with long fur.
b. Use a good basic pellet, 15 to 18% protein, and 18 to 20% fiber.
c. Feed 5 to 6 oz daily to single rabbits, after the Doe kindles increase her feed to 10 oz gradually, starting on the third day, if droppings stick to wire,
decrease the feed slightly.
d. If rabbits go off feed give them:
1. Hard stale bread.
2. Hay or straw.
3. Wild grape or strawberry leaves.
4. Small amounts of dandelion greens.
5. Comfrey.
6. Oak leaves, green or dry.
4. Rolled or crimped oats are good for kits, feed separate from pellets.
5. Never rush the kits along, if you do you will throw them into a moult or get them hog fat.
6. Never change brands of pellets during the show season, when a Doe is nursing or during a conditioning period if you can help it. Some feed companies change ingredients in feeds to save cost, stay away from these companies that practice this if possible.
7. Carry your own feed to over night and longer shows, also your own water if possible.
NOTE: Here are the things to remember:
A. You must keep young rabbits eating at this age, if they lose condition, they never regain it.
B. Handle your rabbits often.
C. Shorter fur rabbits condition easier.
D. Keep rabbits that are good eaters.
E. After a period of time, too high of protein can cause rabbits to become flabby in flesh.
F. Proper caging, keep it clean and dry.
G. Ordinarily you feed less in the summer, corn or calf manna is given only to the Does with litters.
H. Heavier rabbits will break in fur more often then leaner ones.
